. V6, DONE! . Jul 21, 2025 .

I did it! My first ever V6 boulder has been ascended! I was quite happy with it after struggling quite a bit in the previous session. I figured out that I needed to bump to the second crimp in order to give me the extra 2 inches to stretch and reach the foot hold with my right leg. When I figured that this is what I had to do, I was able to repeat the climb 3 times without falling. I felt pretty strong and stable in the positions. It was quite satisfying to finally climb a V6. I feel as though, for my own “peace of mind” or perhaps rather for confirmation that this is my new grade, I would have to climb 2 other V6. Being able to climb 3 different boulders of a new grade, I feel, at least for me, removes the possibility of it being a fluke. Once I get there, I can comfortably say that I’m legitimately 1 grade away from my goal. Crazy.

The climb:

Currently at that same gym, there’s a V7 problem that I’ve tried a few times. One caveat about it is that there’s a beta break that essentially lowers the difficulty of this problem as possibly a V4 or V5. A beta break is when someone finds a way to climb the route a completely different way than the route setters have intended. The beta break is substantially easier for this route than the intended route. So easy, in fact, that I flashed (did it first try) it.

Here’s how it went:

As you can see, I use the volume on the right instead of going left which breaks the intended route. The crux of the boulder is bypassed entirely. Instead of using the volume, we’re supposed to go left by first using the right hand instead of the left hand in the really bad hold in the middle. It is a very crimpy and small pocket that can either be used with upside down middle and ring right fingers OR a thumb jam before reaching the left hand onto the left jug that’s situated on the angle volume on the left side of the frame in the video. That’s the crux. I’ve tried it and it’s very very difficult. I can’t even hold myself on the wall with the thumb jam. I would have to try with the upside down two finger pocket, but that move is no joke either. It requires precision, speed and finger strength that I’m not sure I currently possess. Although, with enough tries, I could perhaps stick it. However, as with most gyms, routes are reset every 3-4 weeks which introduces another dimension of difficulty: time. It will probably not be the route that I ascend my first V7 on, but it was quite interesting to get a sneak peak at what’s coming. Every grade at the point where I am in terms of my abilities is quite the step up. So even though I’m only a single grade away, it is not going to be easy.

. Almost got a V6 . Jul 9, 2025 .

Yesterday, I went climbing for the first time in 2 weeks. I had a weird injury about 3 weeks ago. I believe it is (yes it’s still not completely healed) a bursitis of my left elbow. I think I might’ve hit the point of my elbow pretty hard on the wall and that must’ve caused it. It appeared the morning after I climbed, which was strange because I didn’t feel anything weird at the elbow level the day before. I initially thought it was some kind of bug or venom infection as it could be a thing here in Thailand. It’s been inflammed ever since. Quite warm at the touch and icing it doesn’t seem to do anything. Went to the doctor where I was prescribed antibiotics for a week but that also didn’t do much. It’s been less inflammed and swollen lately so I went to climb yesterday.

I wanted to go easy at first, but after a few easy warmup climbs, the elbow felt good. So naturally I went hard. I had some issues with a V3 that was quite angled and the first two moves are on sloppers. I was quite taken aback at the fact that I was struggling with a V3. I moved on from it and tried a V6 about 10-15 times. I was really REALLY close to sending it and my right foot slipped. I was really mad at myself as I knew that I had passed the crux move and had only very good holds for the remainder of the problem. I’m going back tomorrow to do it again and hopefully get the top. If I get this, I will be one grade away from accomplishing my yearly goal of climbing at least one V7 problem. This is exciting.

. First V5 ascended . Jun 5, 2025 .

So I went back to that same gym to do that same route, again.

I’m not able to do all the moves of that same V5 that I’ve been struggling with. Chaining all the moves together, I get all the way up to two moves away from the top before it seems I get too tired to both be precise and hold the piece. I’ve tried just those last two moves in isolation but couldn’t do them. It’s quite tricky and angled (for me it is). Here’s where I stand on that route so far:

Not bad, but still not there yet.

I did however successfully ascended a different V5 route today! It feels good to ascend a new grade for the first time. Gives me hope for my yearly goal.

Here it is:

The gyms here often are lower grades and thus V5-V6 is usually the highest grades. There is one gym that has a moonboard however. This board allows you to climb much higher grades as they come in two flavours: a 25 or a 40 degrees angled wall that has nearly 200 holds. The magic of the moonboard is that, when paired to your phone via bluetooth, in conjuction with the moonboard app, gives you access to over 26500 routes that other climbers from all over the world have set using the same layout of holds. The moonboard at my gym is the 40 degrees angle model which is really steep. The lowest grade available on the app is V4. The reason that I’m talking about the moonboard is because I can see that after a certain grade, say V6, the moonboard becomes a better tool to train one than the routes in any of the gyms here. At least, for someone like me who wants to push himself.

. I returned to it . May 24, 2025 .

I returned to that gym and worked on that problem last night. I was able to land the next 3 moves. It looks like I’m 2 moves away from being able to land all the moves. However, the difficulty of climbing is to link all moves in one go. You have to be fresh, your fingers and forearms must not be “pumped” or tired to get the best chance to successfully ascend the boulder problem.

It was interesting climbing with other people closeby. Everybody encouraging everybody else when it’s their turn. Feels like a community effort.

I might need a bit more time to rest this time around as since my last log, I’ve climbed twice on already battered hands. I need a good reset so that I can try hard and not worry about ripping more skin off of my raw fingers.

. Working on a V5 problem . May 16, 2025 .

Went to this small climbing gym today. It’s outdoor so no AC, but it’s been fairly mild lately in Thai summer standard – lots of rain. They grade their routes with colours representing V grades. I did a V5 quite easily, third try, which was surprising as in other gyms, I sometimes struggle with V4 boulders. Anyways, after that one, I spent the remaining 1.5 hours of the session on a V5 crux move that I think I’ll be able to stick in the next session. I had to stop as I had pretty nasty flappers all over my hands.

How many times can a guy stop to tape yet another finger before it becomes ridiculous?

The crux move, or at least what I think is THE move (the beta, they call it), is a right hand undercling with a left hand jug which is already quite wide and into an even wider left hand side jug. At this point, I’m about 90% maximum span width and I need to then dynamically move my right hand into a higher undercling, which is kind of awkward. Before that dynamic move, however, I need to jump while holding myself up with my hands in order to put my left foot on the left side of the boulder to shift my center of gravity.

Apparently, that section of the gym won’t be reset for another 2-3 weeks so I should be able to fit in a few more sessions and be able to do that problem. I just have to try really hard.